Fuel pipes and Wiring

 After refitting the fuel pump after wiring it up was able to fit the pipes on to the tank fittings 

fuel pipes fitted 

The strainer does not have any arrows on it but on one of my camera happy visits to GD i have taken a picture of this and that's' the way Andy fitted it so works for me ,happy with the gland to fit the cable as allows me to "lose" the spare cable in the boot but should I need to take it all down there will be enough slack cable.

Reversing light 

Been putting off fitting the reversing light for some time as marked  it out while the body was on the stand and just wasnt happy that it looked right ,due to the shape of the car so difficult to get datum marks .

Once the boot was on and fitted using the handle gave me another reference so at least it would look right .

measured from each side on the boot handle and each side of the lights and eventually was happy so fitted finally .

Again using the stand offs supplied by Andy I have opted for the lights to have the screws up and down so using the stand off i could use the existing screws just had to extend then with 5mm barrel nuts .

finally happy  looks good 

flushed with success decided to finish the wiring in the boot . The loom naturally goes to the 2 sides of the car and everything is duplicated .My wiring loom had 2 earths each side instead of the 1 shown on the diagram .checked with a meter and they were both good ,so used the Bullet joinerfor 1 earth and brake/tail + indicator and a straight joiner for the other earth and reversing light or fog light .

once the wires were all conected set out to try and tidy it up a bit ,using a p clip to the indicator fixing made it look a lot better ( get covered with carpet anyway .

wiring with p clip and tie wraps

Wiring Alterations

 There are some wiring loom alterations that are mentioned on the DVD but not obvious enough for me to have seen before fitting the wiring .

First change is to the horn relay .

The relay has a feed to it and requires an earth impossible to change while its fitted 

Horn relay is the 3rd from the back 

The purple loop need cutting and replacing with an earth .

loop can be seen 

loop replaced with an earth 

Second Change is the  fuel pump feed wire, the wiring is fed from an ignition live from the fuse box and on my car the fuel pump is fed from the ecu so the pump wire has to be cut from the fuse box an attached to the ecu fuel pump wire .

fuel pump wire cut from fuse box 

As this ignition wire is no longer required i intend to use this wire for the feed to the electric seats and the reverse lock out switch .

Third change is to the washer pump again the feed needs removing and replacing with an earth wire 

feed(green wire removed and replaced with an earth 

Dash board part 7

 Been to GD and got a replacement Start button and at the same time got advised that the button will not carry the intended start current !!! 

So Relay now required , fitted the relay on one of the gauges ,as per a previous post i intend to use the engine start light as an oil pressure light so this means that i will need to supply a feed to the light an then the iol pressure sensor will evevitivaly earth it putting the start light on when there is no oil pressure ie engine stopped .

Relay can be seen attached to fuel gauge with the feed coming from the volt gauge  

The gauge lights i have fitted using male spades for the positive but the negative i fastened to the gauge nus to try and increase the earth paths  

Left the speedo and tacho Gauges out to make it easier to fit the dash (hopfully ) 

 

Dashboard part 5

Next part of the dash was to cut the holes in the leather for the instruments and switches ,but first took it back to the car to make sure it still fitted and yes it did  ,again followed others blogs and cut the hole onto segments so they will fold back .
After trying various methods found the best way was to use a scalpel bought from the internet and cut the gauges into 12ths
the switches very  fiddly and cut them into 8ths as well as multiple cuts to my finger.

cutting leather  with scalpel and hopefully not the floor  

Once this was all cut out tried all the gauges in to make sure that they would still fit and found that the indicator lamps would not go in ,gingerly use of the dremmel sorted this and pushed all the lights and gauges in .
I then applied glue to the segments and stuck those to the back of the dash.

segments glues

Had to push the switches in from the wrong side to make the segments stick and then hopefully will be able to put them in the right way .

well pleased and going for the rev counter on the drivers side

Dashboard Part 3

Next stage was to cut out the foam where the gauges need to be ,read other blogs and coped the idea of using a craft knife .This worked for the gauges but did not work for the switches or lights.
Came up with the idea of heating up a screwdriver and using it as a hot knife worked a treat .

dash hole cut including the additional hole for the heated seat 

Next thought I ought to look at the dash loom expecting it to have little labels on like the engine but no such luck .
Found myself looking at the build manual technical files and found the layout schematic and had to go though each plug and group of wires to identify them separately what a pain .

spaghetti with my masking tape idents  

This raised 2 issues  the first is there was no connection for the courtesy lights on the loom ( the wires just stopped at the plug ) .
the second was that there was a sender wire for the oil pressure  gauge but my gauge is pressure driven with an oil pipe .
Following the wire back though the looms it went to the unused wire at the back of the engine .

unused white oil pressure switch wire at top of picture

    I understand why there isn't an oil light as I have a gauge but .... if its there --  bought an adapter ring from ebay (£1.00) and then pestered my local motor dealers for an oil pressure switch to fit it ,result eventually and a huge thank you to Parkers (the parts people) ,switch that fitted  was from a Chevrolet Matiz( part number SOB807).

oil pressure take off with adaptor and pressure switch

   My idea now is to wire this in on the dash to the illumination on the start button ,my thinking behind this is when the ignition is on the start button will light up and go off when the engine starts .

Heater

Realised that after I had installed the heater there is another wire to go though the bulkhead to fasten on the battery It is the feed wire foe the ECU and fuel pump .
I was never totally happy with the heater pipe anyway as it seemed a bit tight in the hole and had the potential to wear though and empty the coolant so out it came to make the holes bigger .

Heater removed and holes made bigger

At the same time I noticed that the positive cable was not long enough to fit on the terminal and still look neat ,this was because I had routed it clear of the exhaust  .My solution was to fit a Battery isolating switch this comes with a removable key should I feel the need .


Battery switch fitted  and cable looks better

At the same time I thought it would be a good idea to have isolating valves on the heater circuit in case of a leak and also if I ever wanted the heater to blow cool air ( unlikely I know ) so ordered to valves from car builder solutions and happy with the fit.

the valves  have a flow arrow on so one is the wrong way round
which I will turn when I figure out which is the return pipe