Reflectors

 Realised that i needed reflectors to pass the IVA and didnt want the expense of buying another 2 standoffs so copied another users blog and made a bracket to support the reflector off the indicator s ,a bit of a fiddle to make but hopefully worth it 

found a piece of stainless hanging around 

The slot was there on the metal i acquired but will be hidden by the reflector ,once i got the indicator to fit I spaced the refector with a 5mm drill spryed black and fitted .

look better than i thought might even leave them of after IVA 

 

More wiring (boot)

 The number plate light gets its feed from a connector next to the fuel tank and goes in the boot at the hinge, I thought i could combine the two and place a boot light in the circuit  .

Started by glassing some wood each side of the boot and then a bit a 10mm heating pipe to hide the wires .

one side done ( hard to glass upside down ) 

Then moved on to the other side ,used p clips to secure the wire up to the light and all done

 

Fuel pipes and Wiring

 After refitting the fuel pump after wiring it up was able to fit the pipes on to the tank fittings 

fuel pipes fitted 

The strainer does not have any arrows on it but on one of my camera happy visits to GD i have taken a picture of this and that's' the way Andy fitted it so works for me ,happy with the gland to fit the cable as allows me to "lose" the spare cable in the boot but should I need to take it all down there will be enough slack cable.

Reversing light 

Been putting off fitting the reversing light for some time as marked  it out while the body was on the stand and just wasnt happy that it looked right ,due to the shape of the car so difficult to get datum marks .

Once the boot was on and fitted using the handle gave me another reference so at least it would look right .

measured from each side on the boot handle and each side of the lights and eventually was happy so fitted finally .

Again using the stand offs supplied by Andy I have opted for the lights to have the screws up and down so using the stand off i could use the existing screws just had to extend then with 5mm barrel nuts .

finally happy  looks good 

flushed with success decided to finish the wiring in the boot . The loom naturally goes to the 2 sides of the car and everything is duplicated .My wiring loom had 2 earths each side instead of the 1 shown on the diagram .checked with a meter and they were both good ,so used the Bullet joinerfor 1 earth and brake/tail + indicator and a straight joiner for the other earth and reversing light or fog light .

once the wires were all conected set out to try and tidy it up a bit ,using a p clip to the indicator fixing made it look a lot better ( get covered with carpet anyway .

wiring with p clip and tie wraps

Fog light

The fog and reversing light need to be on the centreline of the body or off set, but the fog light needs to be more than 100 mm from the stop light which is only 4 inches

The lights are mounted on shiny GD stand-offs. The positions were marked out on the body using masking tape - minimum height is 250 mm from the ground, maximum for the fog is 1000 mm and 1200 for the reversing light. The IVA is quite specific . However, as my car body is now on axle stands  I looked at other blogs for the position. I reckoned that mounting them 15 mm down from the boot opening would be okay.
My lights are the other way round to most people as I opted for the screws to be up and down this posed a bit of an issue with the stand offs

Stand off filed out to accept the earth clamp

so I used M5 joining nuts and M5 stainless stud to lengthen the bolts .

joining nuts and studs ready to fit

measured and drilled (needs a bigger hole than I thought to let the body of the lamp though)

all done and on to the reverse light next .

all done

 

Light wiring

Next task was to start with the wiring started at the drivers side and worked my way round .
Using the GD diagram the wires.  are quite straightforward .
Knowing how much water plays havoc with wiring wanted to make sure in the unlikely event of being caught out in the wet at least the wiring would stay dry .
Placed heat shrink on the headlight  cable so that no water could get in the cables and used the bullet connectors supplied to connect up followed by adhesive tape to seal it all in .
At this point I was not happy with how exposed the indicators were so decided to try and protect them a bit .
After some thought cam up with half a tennis ball  ! I extended the light securing screws with 5mm barrel nuts (tool station ) and then fastened the tennis ball with 2 more 5mm nuts after painting think it look better only time will tell .

Still wet should blend it when dry !

As in the same picture fitted the mesh covers at the same time these were fabricated  by Steve whilst laughing at my tennis ball idea ,he  had to make a wooden template to form the mesh round as the hols were already cut so couldn't use the piece cut out and have to say fitted first time .

Courtesy lights

 On the wiring loom there is the facility to have Courtesy lights operated by door switches so figured if its there why not .
Bought the door switches from Amazon via China at two quid the pair.

Holes drilled

Then fixed with 4mm countersunk nut and bolt my first idea was self tapping screw but the switch will need earthing to work and the bolt will provide a better and easier earth

Fitted with bolt (free advert for Aldi Butter ( keep bits and bobs in them )

 

Front wiring loom

Took the front loom out of the box and tried to make sense of it ,wiring loom in one hand and the GD manual in the other and all the wire in front of the engine grommet made sense ( worry about the back bits another day .
First job is to fit the fuse box and it matters which way up it goes ( fuse 1 needs to be at the top !)
again the hole was already cut out for me except it was bigger than the fuse holder in places secures with the bolts and black Silastic

Fuse box fitted the Silastic can just be seen

Secured the wiring loom with 10mm "P" clips to the bulkhead

Part of the loom goes thoughh the left inner wing (used a 25mm grommet) and then doubles back on itself for the indicator repeater so used the same bolts ( less holes!)

Wiring loom doubling back

The rest of the loom then goes across the bonnet stay to supply the drivers side lights secured with 2 5mm rivnuts

View from the nose cone the slack is to accommodate the engine air intake
and the wire hanging down is the feed to the rad fan  

The wiring loom then mirrors the left hand side to supply the drivers indicator repeater .



Repeaters

Just managed a bit of time after work to fit the repeaters.
10 minutes thinking time as they come with a chrome surround but the rubber is stuck to the light .
Worth running a small screwdriver between the rubber and the light to break this seal smoothly in order to get the chrome shield on first .
The first one took me nearly 30 mins armed with Vaseline to try and get it in .
Second one 5 mins  ..Put the rubber insert in the hole first and then the repeater just slid in .
Point to note wiring here is reversed white is earth and black is live

Repeater ( didn't plan for the selfie )

Front lights

Tackled the front lights so at least it starts to look like a car
found this easy as the holes were already cut for me by GD .
All I had to do was drill another hole to clear the horizontal adjuster ,I opted to use 4mm Stainless nuts and bolts instead of the supplied self tapers

Now it starts to look better

View from the inside showing the bolts

Lights

Set to fit the back lights expected this to be a simple job as the holes were already drilled for me by GD .
Decided to fit with the mounting screws vertical as I found a locating peg on the lens and I wanted that to be on the bottom.

Once the holes are filed out to accommodate the earth connection its a simple job to fit .
As the car is not quite level on the trestles I have made the holes slightly larger so there is a bit of movement for the final fit once I have a level platform to work off .