Ops propshaft

 Completely forgot to grease the propshaft before the body went on and kept putting it off , Bribed Steve with a Subway and he "volunteered!" to grease it ,apparently not easy according to the swear words  sorry Steve !

 

Half a Steve 

 

Leather

 First piece of leather to fit is the transmission tunnel top cover ,was dreading this so needed moral support in the way of Steve .

Marked the top of the gear stump with grease and placed the leather on top to give us a clue .

then cut a small hole just big enough for the shaft .

Cutting out the small hole 

It would then lay on the transmission tunnel in the right place ,between us we came up with the idea of replacing the bolts with sharpened studs which will mark the fiberglass backer 

sharpened studs 

this worked very well and gave us the position of the three holes  then using the ring we could calculate the diameter and position of the gearstick hole .

This was drilled out with a hole saw and then the leather was cut with a knife .

The gater was eased into position and stretched until it fitted in the ring and then screwed down.

sure, he hates me 

the finished effect looks brill thanks Steve 

the back of the leather lifts up but that should be trapped by the back piece and if not going to glue some velcro tape to the back which will stick it to the carpet .

Gearbox oil filling

my gearbox is a manual but the instruction specify using ATF so strange but hey ho
Instaed of messing about trying to get to the filler and level plug used a trick from one of the American blogs and poured it in though the shifting plate until it came out the level plug .a lot easier

weird putting atf in a manual gearbox

Wiring part 1

Been putting off the wiring loom but can't any more. Getting it out of the box was the first milestone and then I needed a beer! .
Using other peoples blogs and pictures that I took when at the factory I sorted out the staring point was were the loom splits to feed the two banks

loom laid in the right position  loom is marked nearside and off side

 Then I started laying the 2 sides and hoped that things would fall naturally into place which most things do.

off side loom with the injectors and coil pack falling just right

The loom splits up just before the first cylinder and goes down the off  side of the engine  for the O2 sensor knock sensor the starter motor cables and the all important crank position sensor. The only way I could gat the CPS fitted was to take the starter motor down again.


Crank position and the knock sensor ( with starter removed ) the bottom one is the unused oil level

I noticed a wire that said coolant temp with nowhere for it to go eventually  I found a blank on the right hand side with a temp sensor in the box of tricks , hey presto the supplied sensor fits in there with the  doughty washer

coolant temp sensor (for the gauge not the engine ECU which is the other side

Following on from this was the starter cable  together are the alternator supply cables  and the other cable is the start request signal really tight for space to clear the exhaust.

showing the alt cables and start cable ( used "P" clips in any vacant hole to try and tidy up the loom

moving back to the top to finish off was the last 2 sensors which nicly fall into place on the throttle  body and map sensor

 

off side done

Last job on this side was to fit the off side O2 sensor which connects up but way too much cable so coiled it up to keep it away from everything and tie wrapped it to the frame.

O2 fitted and all the cable tie wrapped out of harms way

Before moving to the near side I had the speedo sensor to think about ,The plug is special order from the US with an extra 30 dollars to get it here yer right, so a bit of thinking later and !!

speed sensor

took out the speedo sensor and cut the shroud off to expose the pins

and then crimped 2 red though connectors on to it

crimped happy days
 

then is was just a matter on putting the shroud back on and filling it with epoxy proper job

Engine work (Gear box)

Attaching gearbox to engine

 The end of the gearbox output shaft was lubricated with lithium  grease and  using the engine hoist and a couple of slings, the gearbox and bell housing were offered up to the engine.

 

 





 Making sure that the shaft was lined up, the bell housing was then twisted a little and pushed home over the locating pegs. The bell housing was then bolted up to the engine block using high tensile bolts and torqued to 40  ft lb. Thread lock was applied to these bolts before tightening.

Fitting the unit in to the chassis

 The radiator support frame and the two removable cross member from the front of the chassis were removed (the top brace and the diagonal).


The engine mounting adaptor plates were  fitted to the engine and only go on one way ,  Each mount has to have the bump ground off and then I painted these with stove enamel .

 

The gearbox selector was removed and the hole covered up with masking tape

 

 

 Using the hoist and the load leveller which is a great piece of kit  we manoeuvred the assembly in to place. Never took any pictures here as was too busy  with the 10k Engine and the 10K chassis .

However it all went fairly straight forward  just needs to be tipped in first then leavaled out (load leavaler came in to its own here great tip from Andy ) forgot to remove the brake pipe braket and the engine doesn't go past this so quick break while everything is in the air to move this

 

Got the engine sat on the gearbox mounts then realised that I hadn't fitted the propshaft so had to take it out a bit. The prop shaft was inserted in to the tail of the gearbox, lubricating the gearbox seal with the gearbox oil.



 The engine mounts were then slid in to place, over the chassis mounting points. The long bolt and nut were used to secure the mount to the chassis. The three supplied hex set screws were then inserted through the mounting in to each adaptor plate.

Engine in I can relax now

 

Couldn't get the gearbox rubber mount to fit into the gearbox even after removing the rubber in the threads .

M12 bolts seem to be supplied but the thread looked M10 .

Just left it in place and look at this another day .

Good days work and enjoyed it ! Huge thanks to Steve again

 

Cross braces back in place Note the wheel sliders which are so useful

 

Engine work (gearbox)

Fitting the release bearing

 

The clutch release mechanism is a modified (by GD) hydraulic bearing, with braided hoses fitted.

Mine as other blogs didn't fit so I had to open the bottom slot a bit with a de burring tool . Remembering to protect the gearbox bearing from flying aluminium .

 



Slot opened  in the gearbox



 

Now it fits

 

The hydraulic release bearing was located over the gearbox output shaft, with the outlets aligned with the slots in the gearbox. The release bearing was bolted in place with the two M6 set screws supplied. Both screws had thread lock  applied. The bottom  hose is the bleed pipe.

 Fitting the bell housing

The bell housing was attached to the gearbox, using seven new high tensile bolts. These bolts were thread locked too.

bell housing attached and torqued up ready to fit to the engine