Fuel tank

While I was climbing in and out of the boot cursing once Steve had finished taking the p+ss and stopped laughing he volunteered to fit the fuel tank sender to the tank .


getting out is twice as hard as getting in

This again is not as easy as it looks because the sender is too long and needs bending and then the float moving so it will sweep without hitting the baffle .

Best engineering drawing I've seen

once the sweep is sorted the tank then needs drilling out to accept 4mm rivnuts

camera shy 

 then the sender fits a treat job done .

excellent job

Roll bars part 3

Another day and on to the bottom nipping bit ,drilling the back of the body . Looked at other blogs and idea is to climb in the bloody boot again and use the plumb bob to guess were the hole should be ,wasn't looking forward to this at all ,
Steve the genius came up with a plan and that was to sit some 12mm stud bar with a nunt on the roll bar fitting and providing it was level we should be close .

Steve's copyrighted tool

Drilled the hole were the stud touched the roof and moment of truth checked with a plumb bob though the hole .

impressive Steve

as you can see bloody close !! this idea was then passed on to the remaining front holes .
flushed with success we decided to drill the body with the hole saw .
after first checking that all four holes were in line with a piece of string and they wre the same distance rom the cabin
went for a 50mm hole saw and drilled it backwards to stop the gell coat chipping .

first hole

   Enough for today wine o clock.

Roll bars part 2

After the 2 front hole had been drilled it was time to open them out to accept the roll hoops
The hoops are 51 mm Diameter and reading blogs the ideal bottom hole to allow for movement is 55mm

Started by drilling with a hole saw to 50 mm, however I didn't want to drill with a standard hole saw for 2 reasons first is its a 6mm drill going in a 10mm hole so ahs the potential to go out of line and second didn't want the drill to take any of the powder coating off the chassis as its was going though .
Hit on the idea of putting some 6mm stud bar instead of the drill and wrapping it with adhesive tape to make it appear 10mm.
Worked like a treat .

hole saw with the modified centre ( after drilling 4 holes )

 Happily drilled the 4 holes to 50 mm which gave me the opportunity to dremmel the holes out to 55 mm and correct any errors .

first hole done

looking down the hole I could see that I was a little bit off centre but can be corrected

second hole note slightly out

Then came the fun bit how to dremel them out to 55mm and make the hole central, hard enough but even worse when there is no room , getting in the boot was fun but getting out another matter entirely .
again came up with an idea got a 12mm bolt and wedged it in some adhesive which had a diameter of 55mm ( eventually ) .

home made tool (note the back hole is smaller 44mm)

this seemed to work and filed the holes until the tool dropped in the hole result .

tool in action  

all four holes now 55mm . time for a glass or three

Brakes

While the wheels were off I looked at front brakes  and they look the dogs... but the back brakes are plain by comparison ,as they are new thought it would be a good time to srray them as they can be seen though the wheel .

front brakes looking good

disappointing back brake

so I removed the callipers and sprayed them with a gloss black brake calliper spray from Ebay (£4) remembering to use masking tape on the rubber bits and block the brake fluid hole up .

sat on the trailer after being sprayed

 then it was just a case of refitting and happy with the difference .

looks as good as the front



Carpets

A pile of carpet pieces arrived, ages ago with the leather seats and other stuff and I thought that I would know were everything went but when it came to it I didn't. When I looked at other blogs, I found that they assumed we all knew where to put the bits too. I have copied Dales Blog here as he has fitted his !!!

Boot carpet

So here is his  take on where all the pieces go, starting with the boot:

Side panels near lights in boot

Side panels above rear axle area in boot

Main floor piece above rear axle, fuel tank and vertical surfaces of wheel arches in boot

Rear floor area and up under boot lock striker plate

Main boot floor area

Found in the kit 2 pieces of carpet that go in the footwells each side ,before I fitted these I wanted to know if I was happy with the pedals .
I had adjustment on the pedals if needed as I had 2 x 5mm plates on the back side of the pedal box so in theory could move the whole thing 10- mm closer if needed .

So a seat try was in order .I already had the seat runner holes drilled for by GD , so simple job of fitting ?? no the seat was too close to the centre and there was no carpet on yet .Had to move the holes 10 mm outwards .

Seat in and the fit is right with the Pedals

Fog light

The fog and reversing light need to be on the centreline of the body or off set, but the fog light needs to be more than 100 mm from the stop light which is only 4 inches

The lights are mounted on shiny GD stand-offs. The positions were marked out on the body using masking tape - minimum height is 250 mm from the ground, maximum for the fog is 1000 mm and 1200 for the reversing light. The IVA is quite specific . However, as my car body is now on axle stands  I looked at other blogs for the position. I reckoned that mounting them 15 mm down from the boot opening would be okay.
My lights are the other way round to most people as I opted for the screws to be up and down this posed a bit of an issue with the stand offs

Stand off filed out to accept the earth clamp

so I used M5 joining nuts and M5 stainless stud to lengthen the bolts .

joining nuts and studs ready to fit

measured and drilled (needs a bigger hole than I thought to let the body of the lamp though)

all done and on to the reverse light next .

all done