Radiator and Airbox

the Air box just jams in above the radiator and s held in place with the radiator bracket.
First fitted the air box and secured it in place with the top radiator bracket and found that it rattles which is no good took it down and placed draught excluding foam on the top ( sorry no picture ) and then refitted it with no rattle ..
when I came to fit the radiator I found that the fan housing was catching the air box and wouldn't fit .
solution was to move the air box towards the back of the car as there is a cut out that has to line up with the fan .
At the bottom of the rad I inserted some rubber sheet to make sure that didn't rattle either .

Air box fitted with foam rubber just visible
 

Once the radiator was fasten down could fit the pipework .

rad fan now clears the air box pipework

Roll Bars part 5

Once we had a tap and cleaned the holes out we were good to go to bolt down the bars.
This is no where as easy as it sounds as they want to spring all over ,Found the best way was to fit the inside long bolt first and then using ratchet straps and skill got the other bolts in .
Once fitted there needs to be a clearance hole for the grommet and the posh stainless plate which according to other blogs is 5mm .
Using a 5mm allen key to draw round the bars they were removed again and out came the dremmel to make the holes bigger .


holes now 5mm bigger and bars dropped in

A good day now waiting to fill with foam or something else (not sure yet ) and then grommets and plates .
At least the car can come off the axle stands finally .










Roll bars Part 4

After repeating the process for the other three holes we were ready for a trial fit and shock horror they didn't fit ,

last of the big hole before the trail fit

After 5 mins of panic it transpired that the roll bars were not parallel .Panic over and we needed a way of stretching the bars apart , settled on a trolley  jack which worked quite well

using a trolley jack to make the bars parallel again

after this bit of fettling the bars go in very nicely .

roll bars fitted the wrong way round

Now comes the hardest part ,Drilling the 3rd hole, First issue is that the third leg bolts on to a bracket which can be moved so the stud idea would not work ,next we measured the leg of the roll bar and discovered that it wasn't in the middle  so using triangle theory wont work either  After discussions with Steve as to the best way we settled on placing the roll bar the right way round and balancing it on the top of the body using a sprit level to make sure it was upright in both planes .At this point we would draw round the roll bar to give us an approx  place and then drill a 2mm hole and again used the plumb bob to see were this was in relation to the hole .
Amazingly we were less than 2 mm out ! result so out with the hole saw .


roll bars dropped in the holes

Next came to trying to bolt them down , tried the bolts in the holes (1/2 unf)  and they wouldn't  start , all stop until a tap is sourced .

Fuel tank

While I was climbing in and out of the boot cursing once Steve had finished taking the p+ss and stopped laughing he volunteered to fit the fuel tank sender to the tank .


getting out is twice as hard as getting in

This again is not as easy as it looks because the sender is too long and needs bending and then the float moving so it will sweep without hitting the baffle .

Best engineering drawing I've seen

once the sweep is sorted the tank then needs drilling out to accept 4mm rivnuts

camera shy 

 then the sender fits a treat job done .

excellent job

Roll bars part 3

Another day and on to the bottom nipping bit ,drilling the back of the body . Looked at other blogs and idea is to climb in the bloody boot again and use the plumb bob to guess were the hole should be ,wasn't looking forward to this at all ,
Steve the genius came up with a plan and that was to sit some 12mm stud bar with a nunt on the roll bar fitting and providing it was level we should be close .

Steve's copyrighted tool

Drilled the hole were the stud touched the roof and moment of truth checked with a plumb bob though the hole .

impressive Steve

as you can see bloody close !! this idea was then passed on to the remaining front holes .
flushed with success we decided to drill the body with the hole saw .
after first checking that all four holes were in line with a piece of string and they wre the same distance rom the cabin
went for a 50mm hole saw and drilled it backwards to stop the gell coat chipping .

first hole

   Enough for today wine o clock.

Roll bars part 2

After the 2 front hole had been drilled it was time to open them out to accept the roll hoops
The hoops are 51 mm Diameter and reading blogs the ideal bottom hole to allow for movement is 55mm

Started by drilling with a hole saw to 50 mm, however I didn't want to drill with a standard hole saw for 2 reasons first is its a 6mm drill going in a 10mm hole so ahs the potential to go out of line and second didn't want the drill to take any of the powder coating off the chassis as its was going though .
Hit on the idea of putting some 6mm stud bar instead of the drill and wrapping it with adhesive tape to make it appear 10mm.
Worked like a treat .

hole saw with the modified centre ( after drilling 4 holes )

 Happily drilled the 4 holes to 50 mm which gave me the opportunity to dremmel the holes out to 55 mm and correct any errors .

first hole done

looking down the hole I could see that I was a little bit off centre but can be corrected

second hole note slightly out

Then came the fun bit how to dremel them out to 55mm and make the hole central, hard enough but even worse when there is no room , getting in the boot was fun but getting out another matter entirely .
again came up with an idea got a 12mm bolt and wedged it in some adhesive which had a diameter of 55mm ( eventually ) .

home made tool (note the back hole is smaller 44mm)

this seemed to work and filed the holes until the tool dropped in the hole result .

tool in action  

all four holes now 55mm . time for a glass or three

Brakes

While the wheels were off I looked at front brakes  and they look the dogs... but the back brakes are plain by comparison ,as they are new thought it would be a good time to srray them as they can be seen though the wheel .

front brakes looking good

disappointing back brake

so I removed the callipers and sprayed them with a gloss black brake calliper spray from Ebay (£4) remembering to use masking tape on the rubber bits and block the brake fluid hole up .

sat on the trailer after being sprayed

 then it was just a case of refitting and happy with the difference .

looks as good as the front



Carpets

A pile of carpet pieces arrived, ages ago with the leather seats and other stuff and I thought that I would know were everything went but when it came to it I didn't. When I looked at other blogs, I found that they assumed we all knew where to put the bits too. I have copied Dales Blog here as he has fitted his !!!

Boot carpet

So here is his  take on where all the pieces go, starting with the boot:

Side panels near lights in boot

Side panels above rear axle area in boot

Main floor piece above rear axle, fuel tank and vertical surfaces of wheel arches in boot

Rear floor area and up under boot lock striker plate

Main boot floor area

Found in the kit 2 pieces of carpet that go in the footwells each side ,before I fitted these I wanted to know if I was happy with the pedals .
I had adjustment on the pedals if needed as I had 2 x 5mm plates on the back side of the pedal box so in theory could move the whole thing 10- mm closer if needed .

So a seat try was in order .I already had the seat runner holes drilled for by GD , so simple job of fitting ?? no the seat was too close to the centre and there was no carpet on yet .Had to move the holes 10 mm outwards .

Seat in and the fit is right with the Pedals

Fog light

The fog and reversing light need to be on the centreline of the body or off set, but the fog light needs to be more than 100 mm from the stop light which is only 4 inches

The lights are mounted on shiny GD stand-offs. The positions were marked out on the body using masking tape - minimum height is 250 mm from the ground, maximum for the fog is 1000 mm and 1200 for the reversing light. The IVA is quite specific . However, as my car body is now on axle stands  I looked at other blogs for the position. I reckoned that mounting them 15 mm down from the boot opening would be okay.
My lights are the other way round to most people as I opted for the screws to be up and down this posed a bit of an issue with the stand offs

Stand off filed out to accept the earth clamp

so I used M5 joining nuts and M5 stainless stud to lengthen the bolts .

joining nuts and studs ready to fit

measured and drilled (needs a bigger hole than I thought to let the body of the lamp though)

all done and on to the reverse light next .

all done

 

Roll bars part 1

Been putting off this job but can't any more so ,
First job is to level  up the chassis .
This is important as once the bottom holes are drilled the only to transpose the measurement to the top bit is with a plumb bob .
Reading other blogs they say the chassis is what is needed to be level not the body ( which I am not sure about but hey ho )  The rear half of the chassis was the most important as this is where the bars are mounted. Finding flat areas of the chassis to check the level,was a challenge! Finally done and doubly happy as the body is showing level as well.



Chassis sat level eventually  

The roll over bars are the two stainless steel hoops, the saddles/brackets and the fixings.

Roll over bars, saddles and bolts

The saddles/brackets are made of steel and needed to be painted before fitting however I sent them away when the frame was powder coated so done job.

 An 8mm hole was drilled up through the inner front two mounting holes mounting  of the chassis into the boot floor. I used a 90 degree chuck adapter for the drill on each side.

one of the holes viewed from the boot

front hole drilled up

Happy with that so far next job is to open the hole out but another day .